Asparagus really fits the bill, what’s more it is easy to grow, tastes divine, even in small quantities and once established will grow for years and years. Buy Unwins pre-packed asparagus crowns in spring and plant them immediately.

1. Step 1.

   Choose a sunny, well-drained site sheltered from strong winds. Dig over the area thoroughly and incorporate plenty of well-rotted organic matter. If the soil is poor dig in Westland organic Vegetable Growing Compost. If you only want a few plants these can be planted into individual, flat-bottomed holes. If you want a large permanent bed of asparagus then it is best to dig out a planting trench. Dig out a planting area that is 20cm (8inches) deep and at least 30cm (12inches) wide.

2. Step 2.

   Gently spread the roots of each asparagus crown out over the surface of the soil in the trench/hole, so that they lie flat on the surface and make good contact.

3. Step 3.

   Cover over with 5cm (2inches) of sifted soil straight away, it is very important not to let the crowns dry out. As the plants start to grow continually cover them over until there is a mound of good soil over the top of them. Do not harvest the spears of asparagus in the first year at all. Allow them to grow into ferny foliage and establish. Next year, if possible resist the temptation again; it will pay off in the long run. In the third season you can harvest spears when they reach 15cm (6inches tall).

It’s not a good idea to use rainwater collected from the roof of the house or the greenhouse to water seedlings. It can spread a number of pests and diseases.

Keep a full watering can in the greenhouse and allow the water to reach room temperature before using.

Always check the instructions on the seed packet for the right advice about the plants you are growing.

1.  

   Step 1.

   Fill several clean 7.5cm (3 in) flowerpots with John Innes Seed Compost. Lightly firm down. Water the compost using a watering can with a fine rose (nozzle) attachment.

2.  

   Step 2.

   Sow the seed directly onto the compost surface, spacing it as evenly as possible. Sprinkle a thin layer of compost over the top. Label carefully with the plant variety and the date.

3.  

   Step 3.

   Large seeds can be sown individually in small pots. Make a hole with a dibber or pencil and drop the seed into it. Cover over with compost.

4.  

   Step 4.

   Water gently and keep in a frost-free place until the seeds start to sprout and grow.

1. 

   Step 1.

   Clear the area around your rhubarb plants for forcing, making sure the area is free of weeds and that any old leaves or damaged parts are removed from the plant. Cover the crowns with a layer of well rotted, dry compost to feed and insulate.

2. 

   Step 2.

   Using a forcing jar, bin or pot to exclude light place over the rhubarb plant. Ensure that there are no holes letting in the light. In colder areas or for quicker results pack straw around the outside of pot to insulate.

3. 

   Step 3.

   Rhubarb should be ready for harvesting approximately 8 weeks letter

Having done the hard work don’t let those leaves go to waste, small amount of leaves can be added to your compost heap or bin in the normal way.  However, if you are gathering large quantities try making leafmould.   Great for top-dressing containers, rockeries and woodland plants, leafmould can even used as a top-dressing for container grown Rhododendrons and Camellias in Spring or as a mulch for perennials and it couldn’t be simpler to make.

1. 

   Step 1.

   Place the damp leaves into black bin liners with a few air holes added using a garden fork.

2. 

   Step 2.

   Tie the tops and stack the bags in a shady spot out of the way.

3. 

   Step 3.

   Leave the bags for until next autumn, by which time the leaves should have broken down to form rich, crumbly mulch. For a finer top-dressing leave longer. Take care when opening the bags and do not breath in any dust or spores from the compost

This particular variety originates in warmer climes and unlike many other bulbs that are grown indoors it does not require a period of cold. Once they are available to buy you can either plant them straight away or keep them cool and delay planting to stagger the flowering time. You can even plant a handful of bulbs every 2-3 weeks to create a constant supply of the delicate, papery, white blooms. Their exquisite fragrance is so strong that it can perfume a whole room for days on end.

1. 
   
   
   

   Step 1.

   Paper White Narcissi Bulbs can be grown in glass jars without compost for a striking display of flowers. Choose a tall glass vase or jar and fill the base with a layer of decorative pebbles or slate. Position three Paper White Narcissi Bulbs on the top of the stones.

2. 
   
   
   

   Step 2.

   Fill between these bulbs with smaller pebbles or slates. Position a second layer of bulbs between the points of the first, so that the new layer alternates with the first. Fill between these bulbs with small pebbles or slates to hold the bulbs in place.

3. 
   
   

   Step 3.

   Carefully add enough water to cover the bottom of the vase, moistening the stones or slate, but make sure it is just below the lower layer of bulbs. Keep the vase in a cool, light place to grow on, topping up the water level when necessary. Your bulbs with start to root into the stones very quickly and should flower in 8-10 weeks.

1.  

   Step 1.

   Autumn & Winter Lawn Enhancer can be applied to your lawn straight from the pack is you are using a handheld spreader. Alternatively you can use a wheeled spreader, this is especially useful for larger lawns.
   

2.  

   Step 2.

   Select the correct setting for your wheeled spreader. If you a using a Westland spreader this will be setting 3 or 4, depending on the model. Check instructions for details. It is always a good idea when using a spreader to check the granules are feeding through evenly before you start. Lay down some paper or an old blanket so that you can check without wasting any product.

3.  

   Step 3.

   Begin spreading, walk an even pace up and down the lawn. When spreading any feed on your lawn be careful not to stop walking or over-lap too much to ensure an even finish.

4.  

   Step 4.

   Autumn & Winter Lawn Enhancer does not need to be watered in and children and pets need not be excluded from treated areas.

5.  

   Step 5.

   For best results apply once in Autumn and then again in Spring for a healthy, thick and green lawn.

When applied at a depth of 30cm (12 inches) Westland Play Bark will provide protection from falls from a maximum height of 3 metres. For a fall from a maximum height of 2m, bark should be applied at a depth of 20cm (8 inches).

1.  

   Step 1.

   Clear the area where you are setting out for your play area. Dig out any perennial weeds, making sure the taproots of weeds such as dandelions are removed whole. On persistent weeds use Westland Resolva Weedkiller. This is very important, as any small pieces of roots will grow again and push up through the mulch. Annual weeds will be smothered by the bark and will die.

2.  

   Step 2.

   If you want the Play Bark to last longer then spread a layer of planting fabric such as Weed Block over the area first and then apply the bark over the top of this fabric.

3.  

   Step 3.

   Spead the Play Bark over the whole area. Use a 20-30cm layer for best results. 200L of bark will cover about 1m2 at 20cm (8in) deep and should last for up to 3 years.

4.  

   Step 4.

   Check the play area daily and ensure that there is an even coverage of Play Barkover the whole area with a minimum depth of 8 inches, top up with new bark if necessary. Remove any debris and foreign matter that may have appeared in the bark.

1.  

   Step 1.

   Part fill a special planting basket with Aquatic Compost. Plant the lily in the centre and firm more Aquatic Compost around the plant to ensure that the compost provides a good base.

2.  

   Step 2.

   Cover the surface of the compost with Garden Gravel. This helps to anchor the plant and to keep the compost in place.

3.  

   Step 3.

   Lower the container into the pond. If the leaf stems are not long enough to lie on the surface, stand the basket on bricks and remove the bricks as the stems grow longer.

Little skill is required if you use one of the preformed shapes available from many garden centres.

1.  

   Step 1.

   Mark out the shape of the preformed shape on the ground where you would like to situate the pond. This is often easiest using rope.

2.  

   Step 2.

   Dig out the pond area to a depth slightly bigger than the shape. Make sure you take into account any shelves and changes in depth.

3.  

   Step 3.

   Check the depth of the hole you have dug by laying a plank across the hole. Then measure down using a tape measure. You should also check that it is level using a spirit level.

4.  

   Step 4.

   Place the preformed shape in the hole and check that the edges are completely level using the plank and spirit level.

5.  

   Step 5.

   Run water into the pond and pack soil around the edges as the water level rises. Finally push Aquatic Compost firmly under the selves and push down using a piece of wood.

1.  

   Step 1.

   Refill the planter with fresh compost to fill in the holes where the bulbs have been. Try Westland Container & Basket Compost for great results. You can now plant into these gaps. For example a dahlia will grow up through the other plants and add more colour this summer. These are grown from tubers and are not hardy so protect the container if a frost threatens.
   

2.  

   Step 2.

   If there are still a few gaps in the planter then choose some early summer interest plants. Euphorbia combines well with the red foliage of the heuchera. You can also add a small, evergreen hebe to add interest to the front of the container.

3.  

   Step 3.

   Keep it well watered throughout the growing season and feed with Nutri Plant Feed to ensure your plants reach their full potential.