Tomatoes planted with marigolds

Companion planting is a traditional practice used by organic gardeners and is used to protect vulnerable crops from pests and diseases.  By growing specific plants together it is possible to reduce the risk of pests or disease for a particular plant. Protection is achieved in one or more of the following ways:

• One plant may produce a chemical which repels pests certain pests
• Companion plants can be used to camouflage the crop you wish to protect
• Plants can be used to attract pests away from the crop you wish to protect, using them as a ‘sacrificial’ plant.

Below are some traditional examples of companion planting and how it works although there are many other combinations gardeners swear by:

• Carrots & Chives – The growing chives confuse carrot fly so it is less likely to attack the carrot crop
• Tomatoes & Basil – Basil helps to ward off white fly, a great tip when grown in the greenhouse & they taste nice together too!
• Broad Beans & Nasturtiums – Blackfly love nasturtiums so grow them by your broad beans to prevent your precious crops being attacked
• Cabbages & Nasturtiums – Nasturtiums will attract the caterpillars preventing damage to your cabbages
• Tomatoes & Marigolds – Plant marigolds with tomatoes to prevent aphid attack.  Marigolds can also help prevent tomatoes from slugs and wireworm

Broad beans are hardy and can either be sown in October and November or from February under cloches. For autumn sowing choose to grow Unwins Broad Bean ‘The Sutton’ or Unwins Broad Bean ‘Aquadulce’. Broad beans can be sown in situ or individually into modules.

NOTE: Broad bean seeds can also be sown directly into the garden soil. Make a shallow trench in well prepared garden soil and sow the seeds into this spacing them so that they are about 15-20cm (6-8inches) apart. Cover over with soil and keep moist.

1. 

   Step 1.

   Fill large modules or root trainers with a quality seed sowing compost. Choose Westland John Innes Seed Sowing Compost.

2. 

   Step 2.

   Using a dibber make holes in the compost inside each module to a depth of about 2.5cm (1inch).

3. 

   Step 3.

   Sow individual seeds into each hole and then cover over with more compost. Firm gently. Keep the compost slightly moist and in an unheated propagator in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame.

4. 

   Step 4.

   The seedlings will normally start to germinate within 7-14 days. When the seedlings are 7.5-10cm (3-4inches) tall they can be planted out into the garden. Remove them carefully from their modules so you do not disturb the roots.

5. 

   Step 5.

   Plant them individually into holes the same size as the root ball. Leave about 20cm (8inches) between each plant. Water well. Apply a general fertiliser such as Westland organic Chicken Manure Pellets. Keep the seedlings watered until they establish. When the first pods develop pinch out the growing tip of the plant and use in salads and stir fries. Harvest the pods when you can feel the beans inside by pressing gently on the pods.

There are many other benefits to crop rotation too, legumes for example fix nitrogen in the soil whilst they grow and this is then available for the next crop. It is a good idea to follow these crops with leafy brassicas or potatoes which like a high level of nitrogen.

Potatoes also tend to smoother out weeds so they are unable to grow. Follow these with hard to weed veg such as onions.

Crop rotation does require organisation though and you need to be plan at least for the following 3 seasons. For the best results the further ahead you can plan the better.